Balsamic Vinegars

By Joseph Gaglio

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  • In my opinion, the best balsamic vinegar is produced in the northern town of Modena, about 20 miles northwest of Bologna. The families of the area have pooled their resources together and formed a vinegar co-op. This ensures that that any product with the "Modena" label will have the best quality and flavor. Elected "judges" or high-ranking officials of the co-operative stamp the vinegars with the official label. They grade them from best to adequate.

    The origin of balsamic vinegar is an interesting one. For hundreds of years, balsamic vinegar was made as hobby and used liberally as a medicine to soothe an upset stomach or headache. Many Italians took a tablespoon before retiring or upon waking for good health and vitality.

    Chefs around the world are using this vinegar in recipes and menus and its popularity has exploded. Now, it seems every full service restaurant carries an item that utilizes balsamic vinegar. Today, thousands of gallons of balsamic vinegar are used daily across the country.

    With the overwhelming demand for balsamic vinegar, the Modena co-operative started producing two different kinds:

      American mass balsamic vinegar (which we consume by the barrels).
      "Tradizionale" which few of us can lay claim to any intimacy with.

    The difference is simple.

    The "mass" product is produced from fermented red wine and the tradizionale is produced directly from the grapes. Also, the tradizionale product is transferred annually to a barrel made of a different wood. For example, as the product in the wood barrel evaporates, it is transferred from an oak barrel to a chestnut barrel, etc. This vinegar is then tasted by the consortium or co-op and graded based on age, quality and taste.

    In California, there are superior balsamic vinegars. However, many of these balsamic vinegars are produced with sulfite-induced wine and caramel color is added to make up any color loss.

    The people of Modena are very proud of their vinegar. They admit to producing the "mass vinegar" with out hesitation, yet they stress the fact that any vinegar from Modena labeled "Tradizionale" and stamped by the co-op will be the finest balsamic vinegar available.

    If you purchase your balsamic vinegars like fine wine, you might want to check the method, origin, and age of the product before making your purchase.

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    Last modified : Thursday, October 3, 2002